India, Aug. 29 -- Every bazar in the legendary Old Delhi has its legend, and Matia Mahal is no exception. It is said that emperor Shah Jahan, who founded the Walled City, built a palatial mahal of earth as his temporary residence on the very site where today stands the bazar, while the Red Fort was being raised. Could be true. The word "matia" must come from the Hindustani word mitti for earth/mud.

Whatever, no such mud mahal exists presently. And Matia Mahal is no mitti! It is in fact the Walled City's most sparkling site. Every day, the market road acquires its fairytale glitter as the daylight ends. The litter is then no longer so visible. The neon signs give the market an illusion of carefree joyous nights. Wading through massive cro...