India, Aug. 8 -- Bharat Shocker, Cheena Shocker, New Star Shocker. Step into Gali Garhiya, and almost every signboard bears the word "Shocker." A trader explains that mechanics call a motorcycle shock absorber a shocker.

The Old Delhi lane in Matia Mahal owes its name to garraya, a pit that once existed at the end of the street. This rainy afternoon, a grandfather, his son and his son's son are sitting dry inside a shocker shop. The elder man offers chai, confirming the story about the street's name. He also says that the Walled City has two more streets with this name, in Kucha Chelan and Chitla Gate.

As you walk deeper into the cramped lane, it bends and widens. Side alleys branch off, now left, now right. Shops follows shops, each fi...