India, April 4 -- So quiet. Kucha Seth is one of Old Delhi's more serene streets. It is also very deceptive. For without any warning, its tail end drops you into the chaos of hyperkinetic Dariba Kalan.

Dariba! Daribe! Rings a bell?!-some of us of course have heard of Dariba Kalan from the blockbuster song "Kajra Re," featuring the Bachchan family stars. The lyrics passingly mention the street, along with another Purani Dilli locality. Whatever the reference, pricey jewellers dominate this bazar lane, dealing in gold, silver, pearls. in fact, the street is said to derive its name, "Dariba," from a Persian phrase meaning "priceless pearl."*

Priceless indeed is the hoarding of one jewellery shop. It carries not one but two names. In Englis...