India, June 3 -- The menu of the day is nearly as long as the table itself. This afternoon, a row of pans-claiming most of the table-holds kali masur dal, makhani dal, matar paneer, chhole masala, aloo gobhi, and anda curry. There is also a choice of chawal or fresh rotis.

Lakshmi Dhaba, on Central Delhi's Humayun Road, beside a cab stand, has all the basic features of a roadside eatery. Yet, it feels unusually welcoming. Is it the long table and the scattered chairs around it, which give the place an informal, relaxed atmosphere? Or is it the fact that despite the sweltering June heat, it remains comfortable enough for tired and hungry citizens to sit here and eat in peace? Perhaps it is both, and something more.

The dhaba takes its na...