India, Sept. 23 -- Old Delhi is changing furiously. Kebab kiosks are being replaced by pizza parlours. Groceries are displaying varieties of pasta. Mayonnaise sauce has become as much a home thing as pudina chutney. So essential to keep a track of these modernising alterations. They assert that the historic Walled City is not some predictable mango pickle preserved in vintage oil, but is throbbing with contemporary energy, and is very much a part of our transformative present.

This said, a peculiar tea tradition in the old quarter has continued to remain alive. This page had recorded the aspect eight years ago, fearing that it might soon end. Last Sunday, a tour of the Walled City proved that the fear was unfounded. The tradition is cont...