Dehradun, June 8 -- Author

'You have reached your destination!' my GPS awakens me. Certainly not the pleasantest kind of thing to hear outside the lychgate of a cemetery. Let me warn the reader that we have reached the Camel's Back Cemetery where under a forest of cypress trees rest the bones of the minions of the empire.

In front of the caretaker's shack is the impressive tomb of Sir Henry Bohle dated 1851. He was a wealthy brewer, and is credited with starting the Bohle's Brewery below Lyndale or Bansi estate - our first brush with beer.

Below the first bend in the road lies John A Hindmarsh, one of the hundred survivors from the Charge of the Light Brigade. On 16 April 1890 he was in his 59th year, when he was laid to rest by just t...