Dehradun, June 21 -- Himalaya Club Complex in 1860s with ice-pit in the foreground.

Gravely, by common consent, the doctors at the Landour Community Hospital announced their verdict: 'Epistaxis!'

An ordinary nosebleed during a trek in the high mountains spiralled out of control, and friends rushed me here. Next morning, opening my eyes from a drug-induced stupor, I thought to myself: 'This is it! I must have died!' For there at the end of the bed stood what I took to be St Peter himself, with a flowing grey beard, white skullcap, brown hooded cassock and rosary, chanting a prayer.

In my mind, I was at the pearly gates of heaven.

It was the heavy Italian drawl that gave the game way. Slowly it dawned upon me that this was none other th...