Kathmandu, Aug. 9 -- Across South Asia, basmati rice has long been associated with prestige. It is the mainstay of parties during special occasions-from weddings and religious ceremonies to Dashain, Tihar and Eid celebrations. The fragrance of basmati-the word 'basmati' means 'fragrant' in Sanskrit-often defines dishes such as pulao and biryani, adding a sense of occasion to meals served at family kitchens, restaurants and five-star hotel buffets.

This famous aromatic rice is now at the centre of a long-running dispute over its origins, geographical indication (GI) rights and ownership of its global identity. India, Pakistan and, in recent years, Nepal have all entered the race to claim basmati as their own.

As the three countries conti...