Darchula, Nov. 9 -- As Tihar, Nepal's second-biggest festival, begins, families nationwide are preparing to reunite, exchange colourful tika, and celebrate with marigold and globe amaranth (makhamali) garlands. Even those who could not return to their villages for Dashain are making plans to go home.

But for Anjani Bohara of Chhangru, a village on Nepal's northwestern edge, this is the time to leave home.

Before her family moves out, it must store its harvest and prepare for six months away from home. "There's so much to do before we leave. We have to get everything in order, both at home and on the farm," she said.

Her 13-member family is busy gathering firewood, cutting and drying fodder for livestock, and collecting dried leaves to ...