Nepal, June 29 -- The sound of children chanting reached me before I could see them-a rhythmic, sing-song drift from beyond the schoolyard fence. I stopped. Memories pulled me back to a time when we played the very same game, a game I hadn't thought of in decades. Moving closer, I saw a teacher sitting on the ground with a dozen toddlers gathered in a semicircle. Their small hands were pressed palm-down against the earth, waiting, their faces split with wide smiles. I stood still, watching so as not to disturb them.

The teacher kept one hand on the ground with her students while her other hand, a loose fist, tapped each child's knuckles in turn. She moved from hand to hand, chanting, "Udkushi mudkushi lava, soon." The children squealed w...