Nairobi, May 28 -- Ever sat at that massive deck at English Point Marina when the raucous band isn't playing and just stared out across the channel without blinking? Because if you blink you might miss something happening across Mombasa Old Town, aged and elegant like a wealthy weathered old woman, adorned with jewellery, lore and secrets.

There is nothing going to happen across Old Town. Because it's night. The muezzin has already called out the faithful. There is no movement to be seen from the deck. Just lights. Some blinking. And the great invitation of imagination.

I sat at the Deck Bar recently, nursing a post-dinner Fernet-Branca, turned my chair and faced Mombasa Old Town and imagined the lives there. Families living in ancient ...