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The Six-Hour Hunt for a Mother and Son in Kashmir's Canal Murder

Srinagar, Aug. 1 -- The body surfaced before the names did. Just after dawn on July 30, officers from the Khanyar police station reached the Babademb Canal, beneath the Baba Dawood Khakhi Bridge, and... Read More


The Kashmiri Who Made Europe Believe in Magic

Srinagar, July 22 -- The story begins with an absence. Kashmir remembers its movers and shakers, but it has almost forgotten the man who stopped traffic in London, baffled scientists at the Universit... Read More


Kashmir Sits on a River and Still Asks Its Women to Beg for a Bucket

Srinagar, July 11 -- Kashmir loves to call itself the land of rivers, springs and lakes, where water supposedly flows as freely as the poetry written about it. Srinagar sits close enough to the Jhelu... Read More


Kashmir's Barefoot Walk of Remembrance

Srinagar, June 26 -- Warm asphalt pressed against bare feet as women entered Zadibal on Ashura morning, joining thousands of mourners in Srinagar's oldest Muharram neighbourhood. Black banners hung a... Read More


Kashmir Needs Builders, Not Armchair Critics

Srinagar, June 24 -- I still think about a book launch I attended years ago in Srinagar. The gathering brought together writers, academics, journalists, and readers to "celebrate" the publication of ... Read More


The Kashmiris Who Disappeared Into Australia's Desert Frontier

Srinagar, June 11 -- The photograph surfaced in Alice Springs nearly a century after it was taken. An Afghan man kneels in prayer on the desert ground in central Australia in 1934. Sunlight falls acr... Read More


How Unwanted Ride Offers Are Fueling Fear Among Kashmiri Women

Srinagar, June 5 -- For much of her life, Sameera viewed the banks of the Jhelum as a refuge. One evening recently, after a demanding day at work, she headed toward the river that winds through Srina... Read More


Budgam Is Not Kashmir's Punching Bag

Srinagar, June 1 -- A terrible crime in Budgam lately triggered a wave of anger and grief online. Social media quickly filled with outrage, condolences, and heated debate. Then came something else: m... Read More


At a 14th-Century Shrine, Kashmir's Women Mystics Turned to Iran

Srinagar, May 23 -- Nusrat stood near a walnut-wood pillar inside Khanqah-e-Moula, her fingers moving slowly over a worn rosary as hundreds of worshippers pressed through the shrine on the banks of th... Read More