Khartoum, Oct. 21 -- As the sun dips over the rooftops of Sudan's capital Khartoum, bathing the open spaces in a pale golden hue and the earth cools after a heavy day, a different kind of life begins to stir in the city.

On makeshift football pitches carved into dirt fields, children place stones to mark goalposts. The ball is old and worn, the ground uneven and strewn with rubble and withered trees - but the game begins. Dust rises with each kick, laughter echoes through narrow alleys, and for a moment, the weight of war lifts.

There are no nets, no referees, and no uniforms. Spectators sit onbroken crates or stones -- children, women, and the elderly, all drawn to the rhythm of the game.

In District 95, western Omdurman, where power po...