Dhaka, Sept. 25 -- The crackling heat of a clay tandoor, the smell of burning wood and charcoal and the practiced hands of a baker have long been part of the making of 'Bakarkhani', one of Old Dhaka's most recognisable culinary traditions.

However, the centuries-old bread is now being made in an increasingly modern way.

At bakeries around Dhaka, gas and electricity-powered ovens are gradually replacing traditional clay tandoors, allowing bakers to produce more easily with fewer workers and without the smoke generated by wood and charcoal fires.

The change reflects the practical realities of keeping a traditional food business alive in a rapidly changing city. Yet it is also raising a question among bakers and regular consumers: when th...