Srinagar, Aug. 12 -- For over ten years, Yasir's grey Bajaj Chetak was a familiar sight on Srinagar roads.

It was with him through the ups and downs of everyday life, carrying him to work, family visits, busy markets, and back home. Rain or shine, the scooter was steady, just like a good friend you can always count on.

But years passed, and the scooter grew old. One day, Yasir sold it. He took the cash and tucked it away. This money was for something bigger, for both him and his wife, Neelofer.

It was 2011, and the city was changing. Scooties were still rare on Kashmir streets, especially women riding them. Yasir never cared about the unspoken rules that said women should stay inside or wait for someone to drive them around.

To him, l...