PARIS, Oct. 1 -- Anthony Vaccarello opened Paris's week of shows with a runway that treated the city's most photographed landmark as both proscenium and mirror. At the Trocadero, with the Eiffel Tower blazing across a still pool of water, Saint Laurent's Spring 2026 collection arrived in long, unhurried strides: shoulders squared like cantilevers, trench coats treated as dresses, leather honed to an aerodynamic line, and nylon polished until it read as lacquer. For readers tracking our broader style desk coverage, this sits squarely in the season's argument for clarity, as reflected in our fashion & lifestyle reporting and the rolling Paris file we've maintained as the shows open.

Vaccarello has been refining a vocabulary of severity and...