New Delhi, Oct. 3 -- A cinematic tent in the Tuileries, a sharpened Bar line, and a thesis for glamour built to sell.

PARIS - The most scrutinized question in this fashion season's crowded calendar was not whether Jonathan Anderson could make a beautiful dress; it was whether he could make a legacy feel inevitable again. On a windswept afternoon in the Tuileries, inside a darkened, purpose-built pavilion that felt more cinema than salon, he answered with a collection that read like a new grammar: theatrical but lucid, archival yet unafraid of the present tense. The silhouette held close to the body up top, the line decisive, the gestures readable at runway speed and, crucially, at retail distance. By design, the debut set its own stakes ...