Nigeria, Oct. 21 -- I recently traveled to Lagos to visit a former staff member who had suffered a stroke. He was very dear to me during his time as our Chief Photographer, and he once risked his life to protect me. When Abacha's regime was hunting down media critics, charging them with "accessory after the fact of treason," this man shielded me from arrest, putting himself at great personal risk.

After leaving his home near Gberigbe on the outskirts of Ikorodu, I received a call from the Chief Imam of my town, inviting me to be his guest at this year's Maulud Nabiyi. Early the next morning, I set off for Ado Ekiti to attend the event. By evening, I returned home, eager to rest after a long day.

Exhausted and famished, I boiled water in...