Punjab, Sept. 29 -- Lakme Fashion Week, in partnership with the FDCI, runs from 16 October at Taj Palace in New Delhi. Arvind Limited opens with Ashish N Soni and a menswear collection built around fabric rather than silhouette.

What the Arvind show is actually about

The collection is built across cotton, wool, linen, Tencel and bamboo - a mill showcasing its own range through a designer, rather than a designer showing a personal collection with a sponsor's logo attached.

That inversion is worth noticing. Indian fashion weeks have historically been about couture and celebrity closing shows. A textile manufacturer taking the opening slot to demonstrate material capability is a different proposition, and a more commercial one.

Menswear is...