New Delhi, April 25 -- A few minutes south of the city centre in Yerevan, Armenia's capital, tree-lined avenues fall away and eye-catching pink architecture gives way to stark Soviet-style buildings. None is as plain and squat as the GUM Market, a sprawling covered market that looks quite boring from the outside. Inside, however, is another story.

Once through the door, it is just one humungous hall, and an assault on the senses. Rows and rows of colourful dried fruits, heaps of fresh produce, pickled vegetables and preserves, cheeses, fresh baked breads and sweets stretch out in all directions. The air is thick with the combined aromas, and the vendors, mostly cheerful women, shout out greetings and try to coax and cajole visitors into ...