New Delhi, Sept. 11 -- On a pitch-dark, moonless southern hemisphere summer night, the boat docks silently against a small wooden pier. Beyond the pier, the land is a dark blob against which the hazy outline of a wooden staircase is barely visible. The staircase leads to a narrow muddy path and everyone follows in a single line. The silence is a thick blanket and the senses are super-focused as a motley bunch of us wind our way through the forest near Glory Cove of Stewart Island, off the southern coast of New Zealand.

Called the Wild Kiwi Adventure, it is a midnight walk. There are just a handful of infrared torches between us to spot kiwis. Other than that, there is no light. I am encouraged to leave behind all electronics and I grudgi...