New Delhi, Sept. 5 -- The road into the Utah backcountry didn't ease me in. The smooth tarmac of the interstate surrendered without warning to corrugated dirt, and my Ford Expedition was soon trailing a rooster tail of red dust as the miles between me and anything resembling civilisation accumulated. Out here, between Kanab and Cathedral Valley, you eat to survive the day. Sharp cheddar broken off with a thumbnail. Crackers from a zip-lock bag. Energy bars high on nutrition and low on joy. Trail mix eaten by the fistful while consulting a paper map for the next stretch of nothing. This is the fuel of the backcountry, and we bore it with enthusiasm, assuming Utah would delight us with views and vistas, but that the foodie in us would have ...