New Delhi, July 25 -- It may seem like a uniquely Bengali preoccupation-does hilsa from the river or the sea taste better? Yet beneath that seemingly pedantic argument lies a host of issues including overfishing, dwindling fish stocks, climate change, unpredictable monsoons, and a consumerist culture of paying more just to get a beloved food off-season. For the hilsa, a fish that swims upstream from the sea to lay its eggs during the monsoon, any change in climate patterns affects its behaviour, size, spawning, and once it's on the plate, its taste. As Bengal's catch declines, Kolkata depends on Bangladesh, Myanmar and Gujarat on the western coast of India for hilsa. Rituparna Roy and Zico Ghosh set out to find out why Bengal's beloved il...