New Delhi, Aug. 25 -- It was exactly how perfume ads play. I was climbing the steps of Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto, Japan, recently, stopping every few minutes to click photographs, and suddenly a whiff of jasmine mixed with oud and wood stopped me. I couldn't figure out the source. An hour later, while climbing down, I smelled the same cool, floral fragrance. This time, I knew the source: a man in trekking gear who climbs Mt Inari every evening as part of his fitness routine. So drawn I was to the fragrance that I shouted, "Sir, sir". He didn't stop, so I ran after him. He didn't understand English, I don't know Japanese (couldn't use Google Translate because no Wi-Fi). Some gestures later, I got the perfume name. It was a mix of Maiso...