New Delhi, June 6 -- My introduction to Donyi Polo tea estate in Arunachal Pradesh was through their famed Golden Needle teas that earned a record price in the auctions back in 2019. Over these years, I have enjoyed several conversations with Omak Apang, its owner, who always speaks proudly of the artisanal centre at the estate, which is run by a team of 10 women. Many of the teas I have enjoyed in these years were made in this centre, headed by Junmoni Baido, who began as a tea plucker nearly 40 years ago.

I travelled to the Donyi Polo estate last month. It is the largest in Arunachal Pradesh, started in 1985 by Yadap Apang, Omak's late mother. While it was the first estate to come up here, tea itself was not new to this East Siang vall...