New Delhi, Sept. 4 -- The building is hard to miss. Its facade is a striking melange of turquoise, rust and gold, layered almost like an abstract, with no part quite predictable. In many ways, it is an apt visual introduction to chef and restaurateur Gaggan Anand's universe of food and theatre-colourful, irreverent and impossible to read at first glance.

Raga stands aloof on Delhi's Janpath Road, a short distance from India Gate. Once home to Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra, the address now marks Anand's proverbial return to India since his departure 20 years ago. Along with Rydo Anton, the group executive chef of his eponymous Bangkok restaurant, and city restaurateur Zorawar Kalra, Raga signals a renewed ambition in Delhi's fine-dining l...