New Delhi, Jan. 7 -- "Why are you going to Barmer? Carrying the risk of severe bleeding from the smallest of cuts-because of the strong blood thinners you are on." So I was asked. But even when there was no such risk, I would be questioned repeatedly, "Why do you go to Barmer?" in incomprehension of what could pull someone to this barren desert land.

As the country was roiled by the second covid wave in June 2021, we drove 12 hours to reach Barmer. Everything was shut along the route other than two fruit sellers near Jalore. Ravi was waiting for Gautam and me in a makeshift ICU, 60km before Barmer. A body was being shifted. Ravi's right foot had a fracture, but you couldn't tell from what he was doing.

For two days, we followed our team...