New Delhi, Nov. 1 -- What began as a young Korean dancer's curiosity about Indian classical art eventually became a deeply personal journey across borders, religions and cultures, leading her to the heart of Rajasthan's folk traditions.
Born and raised in a strict Protestant Christian family in Seoul, Bak Eunkyeong often felt confined by organised religion. During a difficult phase in her life, she found comfort in dance, which gradually became a path to self-discovery. Though she didn't consider herself religious, she was deeply drawn to Indian mysticism and Sufism. In 2001, she joined Kathak classes at the Indian Cultural Centre in Seoul, where she trained under Manojaay Dabral of the Jaipur Gharana.
Today, Eunkyeong is known as Noori Bak. She adopted the name because many people outside Korea struggled to pronounce her original name. 'Noori' means 'the world' in Korean and 'light' in Persian or Urdu, giving it a meaning she particularly loves: 'The light of the world'.
Her journey to Rajasthan began in Pakistan, where she spent two months learning from renowned Kathak exponent Nahid Siddiqui in Lahore. But it was Rajasthan that transformed her. "I always felt that my soul belongs to Rajasthan," she said. The Thar Desert, frescoes, handicrafts, folk music and dance fascinated her from the outset. Having trained in the Jaipur Gharana of Kathak, she wanted to explore the folk traditions associated with the region. She also discovered similarities between Rajasthani folk movements and Jaipur-style Kathak.
In Jaipur, anthropologist Yusuf Khurram introduced her to 'Kalbeliya' dancers Rajki and her husband, Puranath. Staying with the 'sapera' family proved to be a life-changing experience. Noori spent entire days in their home learning the Kalbeliya dance form, while the family's sons accompanied the practice sessions on the dholak, harmonium, 'been' and 'khartal'. Despite the language barrier, she said, they treated her like one of their own.
What touched her most was the family's attitude towards religion. Although they worshipped Durga, Puranath would pause music practice whenever the 'azaan' sounded from a nearby mosque. When she asked him why, he replied: "Religions are different, but God is one." The simple gesture left a deep impression on her. "Gypsies may not be formally educated," she said, "but their hearts are pure."
Music also brought her some remarkable coincidences. In Korea, she often performed Kalbeliya dances to recordings by the Rajasthani group 'Musafir'. Years later, in Jaisalmer, she met Chugge Khan of the Manganiyar group 'Rajasthan Josh'. After watching a video of her performance, he immediately recognised the music: it had belonged to his former troupe. That evening, he arranged a private rooftop concert where Noori danced to 'Dama Dam Mast Qalandar', losing herself in what she describes as 'spiritual intoxication'.
For Noori, Rajasthani music and dance became more than artistic inspiration; they offered emotional refuge. During lonely periods in Iran, she listened constantly to Rajasthani folk music because it brought her comfort. "For the first time," she said, "I felt homesick for Rajasthan rather than South Korea."
Her attraction to Kathak lies partly in its cultural inclusiveness. She describes it as an Indian classical dance form shaped by both Hindu and Islamic traditions, with Central Asian influences as well. "Kathak blends cultures regardless of religion," she said. "That is what I seek from art too."
While her primary training was rooted in the devotional style of the Jaipur Gharana, her time with Nahid Siddiqui introduced her to the refined Lahore tradition of Kathak. Noori recalled that Siddiqui placed great emphasis on fundamentals. For two months, she practised little beyond posture, walking and controlled movement. Every morning, Siddiqui took her on walks through Lahore's streets to teach her grace and balance. Though frustrating at first, the training transformed her understanding of dance and humility. "She taught me how to overcome ego," Noori said.
Now based in Seoul, Noori is the director of the RAAS Dance Company, where she teaches Kathak, Lavani and Bollywood-style dancing to Korean students.
Despite her travels across the world, Rajasthan remains closest to her heart. She hopes to return soon for a new artistic experiment combining Kathak, Persian folk dance, Sema and Rajasthani folk music.
Looking back on her journey from Bak Eunkyeong to Noori Bak, she said the experience has opened her mind to diverse cultures and deepened her thirst for knowledge. The lessons she learnt from Nahid Siddiqui and the kindness she experienced in the 'sapera' family continue to guide her on what she describes as a 'beautiful journey'.
Published by HT Digital Content Services with permission from Millennium Post.