KUALA LUMPUR, Sept. 11 -- The first time I tried pao fan - a classic Teochew dish of rice submerged in a pork or seafood broth, usually topped with crispy rice - it unlocked something in me.

Growing up, I did enjoy my rice sufficiently lubricated, but submerging it entirely in broth felt a touch too close to congee territory, which I hated. I wanted banjir, not Guantanamo.

Any concerns about rice soaked to a soggy, mushy death in coloured water were immediately quelled by the first mouthful.

My first pao fan, admittedly, was a pretty luxe one: river prawns gave the broth a rich, sweet flavour and a bright orange hue, while the crispy rice gained a brittle, candy-like texture from the plunge.

It left a lasting impression of what pao fa...