KUALA LUMPUR, June 5 -- The word "economy" in economy rice once had a straightforward meaning.

Known to many as geng zai fan - Cantonese for economy rice - the mixed-rice staple built its reputation on affordability, allowing diners to choose according to their budget.

Today, however, both customers and operators say the term has taken on a different meaning.

Prices have risen, margins have narrowed and competition has intensified, transforming economy rice from one of Malaysia's cheapest meals into a category increasingly defined by value, variety and quality.

"You can't call it economy rice anymore in today's economic climate, although yes, there are still some pockets of eateries that are trying to keep up with the concept," said A...