KUALA LUMPUR, Sept. 4 -- When it comes to no-frills, honest-to-goodness Malaysian-Chinese food, it's hard to beat Cheras.

The area is a haven of hidden, if-you-know-you-know places that feed different pockets of the community, many of which have stood the test of time.

By day, you can find excellent Teochew braised duck, curry mee, and roasted meats in and around the Yulek area; by night, neighbourhoods like Taman Connaught and Taman Taynton View come alive with restaurants and dai chows galore.

One such neighbourhood is Kampung Cheras Baru. It isn't far from the Yulek area, and this almost entirely residential area is home to New Fook Kee Restaurant.

It operates out of a house, with the ground floor converted into a dining room.

Ins...