WUHAN, Sept. 24 -- Across a patchwork of village ponds in central China, rows of floating cages ripple on the water.

Beneath the surface, slender, snake-like rice eels twist through the nets - the fish are a common dish at Chinese meals and a big part of how local farmers make a living.

Also known as the Asian swamp eel, the slippery freshwater fish is still somewhat of a niche delicacy outside of Asia.

In China, however, it is widely consumed and has long been prized for its distinctive flavour and nutritional value.

The ponds are in Xiantao, a major hub for rice eel breeding and farming in Hubei Province.

The city now accounts for roughly one-quarter of China's rice eel output, according to local industry figures.

The industry beg...