MELAKA, Sept. 11 -- What was once cubes of pressed radish cake now barely hold their shape, threatening to fall apart when nudged with chopsticks.

Ribbons of scrambled eggs, a slick of chilli sauce or sweet sauce (or both). The aroma of the heavens.

This is the fried carrot cake or chai tau kway that residents in Ujong Pasir, Melaka wake up early for. It is a tradition for many families, with some dabao-ing a packet or two for the sleepyheads still in bed at home.

I know this because I used to be one of the sleepyheads myself.

The chai tau kway stall itself is located just outside Hilir Garden Ice Cafe & Restaurant, a popular kopitiam in the neighbourhood.

Mornings here begin with a gentle hum of chatter and clinking cups. You simply...