KUALA LUMPUR, Oct. 5 -- There's a stretch along Jalan Sultan Azlan Shah, just after the Gombak River and before Chow Kit, where about eight Pakistani restaurants line up in a row, their signboards crowding the view and their smoke billowing into the air.

Many stay open for 24 hours, and even those that no longer do still serve diners till the wee hours of the morning.

Among them, House of Pakeeza is one of the best known, a short walk from the Chow Kit monorail station.

But head further towards the opposite end of the street, and you'll find one restaurant whose lights shine a little brighter, and whose smoke rises a little thicker than the rest: Ras Balouch Restaurant.

It's hard to miss Ras Balouch. It's a verdant splash of green ami...