KUALA LUMPUR, July 31 -- The fish arrived at the table. There isn't much on the plate, just the fish accompanied by a plastic figurine of a man fishing.

A server brings bowls of oil, seasoned soy sauce, crispy garlic bits, thin strips of fried ginger, and coriander for garnishing, followed by two wide spoons that she wields like twin axes.

After a brief pause to allow me to whip my phone out and hit record like a gormless influencer, she begins cutting into the fish.

Crrr-ack. Crisped up by the careful application of hot oil, the scales and skin shatter like glass.

Hot steam escapes as she pulls open a part of the fish's abdomen to reveal a large sac of roe and the liver.

As she portions out the flesh, the bones are so soft they fall...