CHERAS, Aug. 26 -- At first, I wondered if this was a midnight fuelled supper, the sort of midnight indulgence you assemble with whatever is left in the pantry. Noodles piled high, enough to feed two, maybe three.

Except each portion of noodles is a different colour and a different flavour. One pale as fresh corn, another a blushing tomato red, the last glossy black of soy sauce.

Not my kitchen, then, but Restoran J&J Borneo Corner, a Sarawakian-owned kopitiam tucked away in Cheras Selatan. And this is their signature offering: Kolo Mee 3 Rasa, three flavours of the iconic noodles arranged like a painter's palette.

The number three carries forward to the shop's set-up too. The main stall at the entrance offers kolo mee (the friendly ow...