India, Oct. 5 -- From Kolkata's grand pandals to a small cantonment town in Madhya Pradesh, Durga Puja remains a living tradition. Jayalakshmi Sengupta reports how in Mhow, retired and serving soldiers and their families recreate this spirit - through art, adda, food, theatre, and dance.

As the air grew heavy with dhoop and dhuna, and the rolling beat of the dhak echoed across this small garrison town, a circle of dancers slowly appeared in the haze - men in white dhoti and kurta, red sashes tied around their waists, silver anklets glinting on their ankles.

They stepped forward with clay censers of burning husk. Their faces - once stern on parade grounds - now lit up with joy as they swayed gracefully before the Devi. A glorious Maa Dur...