The house that held Devli together
India, June 9 -- It is gone now; Devli's first pucca house, the one that stood near the old chaupal, and the one that older residents still describe in the present even though it no longer exists.
Devli is not easy to find if you do not already know it. It sits between Sangam Vihar and Sainik Farms in south Delhi, compressed between two neighbourhoods wildly different from each other - one a vast unauthorised colony of working people, the other also an unauthorised colony but categorised as "affluent" and is a forested enclave of large houses and concrete lanes. Between them, almost as an afterthought of the city's expansion, Devli continues to exist. The village has been absorbing Delhi's pressure for decades without ever quite becoming Delhi.
People here will tell you the village is nearly a 1,000 years old, and was founded by Meharchand Singhal, and that the families living here today belong to the 43rd generation of that founding lineage. Land records from 1880 confirm the name. This is the kind of continuity that makes the rest of the city feel provisional, all those colonies and complexes and newly named roads sitting on top of something far older than themselves.
The name Devli comes from Devi. In the Haryanvi dialect spoken in the area, the elders say that the invocation "Debi ri" moved through generations of daily use. The village was built around this devotion. Shrines to Mansa Devi, Mahamai and Masani Maa are scattered through the area, and the landscape itself seemed to cooperate with the Aravallis sheltering the settlement from the west, Tughlaqabad rising to the east, Anangpur to the south. To live here was to live inside a spiritual enclosure, the sacred and the physical so thoroughly merged that it would have been difficult to say where one ended and the other began.
The houses reflected this world. An older Devli home was built across three zones that together described a complete way of life. The ghar was the interior, women's space, children's space, meant for cooking and sleeping and the transactions of daily domestic life. The baithak faced outward, space earmarked for men where guests arrived and news was exchanged and the village's public life quietly conducted itself. The gher was behind everything, where the animals were kept and fodder stored and dung cakes made for fuel, completing a loop between the household and the agricultural land that sustained it. These were mud houses with thatched roofs. Thorn bushes marked their edges. The lanes between them were unpaved. In the monsoon, one imagines, they became something else entirely.
It all changed with the arrival of the bangla. Brick and mortar arriving in a mud village was not a small event. It was a statement about the future, an assertion that a family intended to not just live here but to remain here, and that they were building something the rain couldn't dissolve. The bangla stood near the chaupal -- that open platform at the centre of village life where disputes were heard, festivals celebrated, and the village elders sat through long afternoons in a way that elders sit when they have nowhere urgent to be.
The fields around Devli once covered more than 11,000 bighas, according to Revenue department, Govt of Delhi. Bajra in the monsoon; wheat, barley, mustard and chickpeas in the winter.
The wells were deep and the water was drawn with leather buckets called chadat, worked by bullocks and men taking shifts through the heat. When one household needed its fields ploughed, the others came with their own bullocks and the host cooked for everyone who arrived. It was a system, a form of collective organisation so efficient and so embedded in daily life that it required no name, no administration, no committee. It simply happened, season after season, generation after generation, until it stopped.
It stopped because the city came. The way cities always come to the villages or one could say for the village, that they eventually consume it, sometimes whole. The colonies rose on the agricultural land, narrowing ridge access. Silting the jhohads the rural water harvesting ponds, kaccha construction giving way to bricks by the 1980s. Suddenly the village began to urbanise not through amenities but by density and address of the city without acquiring its infrastructure or its recognition.
The bangla survived all of this, the transition from mud to brick, from agricultural village to urban settlement, from dehat to something harder to name. It didn't survive the indifference of a city that has never quite learned to read its own villages as the historical and spatial documents they are.
Research and field support by Puneet Singh Singhal (Founder/curator of Dilli Dehat Project, an initiative that documents rural histories, cultures, and lived realities of Delhi's villages)...
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