A Lanka in Lko? An amazing facet of Nawabi history
India, May 31 -- As one navigates the chaotic traffic on the crowded roads and lanes of Qaiserbagh (or what remains of it), one might perceive traces of a grand past, including remnants of a once-majestic palace complex belonging to Wajid Ali Shah, the last 'Nawab' in Lucknow's layered history. He is remembered not merely for his reign, but also for his vast harem that once graced these very grounds.
Those with a keener eye would glance at the notable structures of Bhatkhande University and Amir-ud-Daula Library, which are positioned opposite one another, with the Safed Baradari situated in between. They would appreciate the architectural beauty of these buildings and acknowledge Wajid Ali Shah's impact on the urban landscape of Nawabi Lucknow, prior to the city being partially razed by the British after 1857.
Regrettably, these narratives are so patently incorrect that today, we shall make an attempt to set the record straight in this column.
Firstly, Wajid Ali Shah had not been a 'Nawab' or deputy of the Mughal emperor. His ancestor, Ghazi-ud-Din Haider, had cast off the yoke of Mughal suzerainty and assumed the title of "Badshah' or independent king in 1818. Wajid Ali was last of this line of 'kings' propped up by the British, although the real administrative power remained vested with the East India Company at Calcutta.
Shah's contribution towards Awadh, and Lucknow in particular, covered a wide canvas encompassing the performing arts in particular. He also built several mansions and gardens across Lucknow, the Qaiserbagh palace complex being his dream project. To quote William H Russel, war correspondent with 'The Times', London, who visited the complex during 1858, Qaiserbagh had 'courts as
large as the temple gardens, surrounded by ranges of palaces, or at least of buildings well stuccoed and gilded, with fresco-paintings here and there on the blind-windows, and with green jalousies and Venetian blinds closing the apertures which pierced the walls in double rows. In the body of the court were statues, lines of lamp-posts, fountains, orange groves, aqueducts, and kiosks with burnished domes of metal.'
Qaiserbagh had been speedily completed within a span of two years (1848 - 1850), under the supervision of Ahmad Ali Khan 'Chhote Mian', who had earlier designed the Chhota Imambada complex. The palace complex was partially destroyed after 1858. The building of the present-day Bhatkhande University was initially built for the Canning College, whose foundation was laid in 1867, being formally inaugurated in 1878. The foundation for the Amir-ud-Daula Library was laid in 1921, and its construction was completed in 1926. Thus, these two free standing structures extant in Qaiserbagh today are actually colonial-era buildings and not Nawabi at all.
Interestingly, while Bhatkhande University is situated on the site of Wajid Ali Shah's former 'Pari Khana' (discussed in an earlier article), the Amir-ud-Daula Library is located on the grounds of Wajid Ali's erstwhile 'Lanka', a distinctive architectural edifice, that faded from public consciousness shortly after the British demolished it, for reasons best known to themselves.
Although long since razed and dismissed as a 'folly', we can visualise the grandeur of this pavilion from the writings of Egron Lundgren, a Swedish painter, who had visited the Qaiserbagh complex soon after the British had recaptured the city in 1858.
According to him, the Lanka had 'a couple of ostentatious, golden yellow, richly decorated buildings, with towers and gilded cupolas, which were joined together at the first floor level by means of a stairway over the arch of a bridge. Under the arch on a raised platform reached by steps, stood a small temple (pavilion) of white marble, with a domed roof, very finely and gracefully executed. A royal throne was placed before this on ceremonial occasions. Before the dais of the throne, there was a particularly fine fountain of marble with black inlay; on either side of it an elephant, also carved in white marble. The structure was decorated with painted frescoes of warriors, dancers and musicians.'
The 'Lanka' was also equipped with a basement or 'tykhana' with the usual 'jharokas' or ventilators communicating outside at ground floor level. As for the name, 'Lanka', it was suggested that the bridge, supported on three arches - a free version of Roman triumphal arches, was an allegorical representation of the bridge mentioned in the Hindu epic, Ramayan. There is also mention of a 'Lanka'
ceremony, a political message, which apparently Wajid Ali enacted every year, as a means of conciliating his Hindu courtiers.
'Lanka', which had suffered significant damage during the events of 1857, was abandoned and eventually demolished by the colonial administration, to make way for the library building. At least one marble elephant described above adorns the grounds of Windsor Castle, England, while a marble kiosk of Qaiserbagh is extant today in Frogmore Estate, adjoining Windsor Castle in Berkshire, England.
Thus, another architectural marvel of Lucknow, originating from the Nawabi period, vanished from the annals of history, and is seldom recognized or mentioned in contemporary discussions, even among the most ardent admirers of Lucknow's cultural legacy....
To read the full article or to get the complete feed from this publication, please
Contact Us.