India, Oct. 18 -- I remember going to the Michelin award ceremony in Dubai last year. It was a staggeringly glamorous event with women dressed in their finest and men in black tie. Everyone who mattered in the hospitality industry in the region was in attendance and many great chefs had flown in for the occasion, including Jason Atherton, the former Gordon Ramsay protege, whose restaurants have now overtaken Ramsay's in prestige as well as Bjorn Frantzen, who had two restaurants with three Michelin stars (the highest honour) in two different continents.

Michelin now rates restaurants in so many countries that it is impossible for Gwendal Poulennec, who runs the Michelin guide worldwide, to be present at every ceremony. But if the market ...