India, Aug. 28 -- It's easy to jump to conclusions. Four years ago everyone I spoke to in the West said meat-eating was in decline. We had recognised the danger that methane emissions (from the farming of livestock such as cows) posed to the environment and would all do our bit to save the planet. Others talked about how vegetarianism was healthier for us. And a mountain of hype surrounded the development of plant-based meats. Eventually, we would all be eating plant-based Beyond Meat burgers, we were told.

Many of those who talked about saving the planet were sincere and were willing to put their money where their mouths were.

I know and admire the chef Daniel Humm whose Eleven Madison Park is one of the world's great restaurants. Dani...