India, May 25 -- At Chanel's Cruise showcase last month, models walked out in sandals featuring a small heel base attached to the back of the foot with delicate ankle straps. The barely-there sandal drew sharp reactions, with many questioning whether this was a bold step forward or a sacrifice of practicality for aesthetics. Practical or not, the trend seems to be catching on, as South African singer-songwriter Tyla also wore a near-soleless heel by Chris Habana in her She Did It Again music video, released in April.

But this isn't an entirely new trend. Luxury brands have experimented with footwear before, though it hasn't drawn such attention. So why are brands experimenting now? Here's what experts decode.

There is a growing wave of ...