India, Feb. 27 -- October 2012., 8.00 a.m. I hold onto the rusted handle of the door of the ladies' compartment and wait for my turn to find a seat in the Sealdah Lalgola Passenger to reach Krishnanagar and observe the workings of a sweetshop. During the course of my daily commute, my fellow 'daily passengers' - in jest would advise me to board the Maitreyee Express and go to Opar/the other side to see who makes better sweets, them or us. Some would quiz me about my plans to go to Bangladesh to taste sweets. Little did I know I would face similar comments during my fieldwork in Bangladesh. As I look back, every time I visited any place adjacent to a land check post, my interlocutors would not miss an opportunity to point to Opar - the oth...