India, Oct. 23 -- Everything that happens in the world of food eventually gets to India. It may take a little time to reach us but sooner or later our chefs come to grips with it.

Eight years ago, I wrote about bone marrow. We thought we knew about bone marrow, I wrote, but we were only used to goat marrow, a small quantity of which we were able to harvest from mutton bones. It was nice, but not really my thing. My fascination was with beef marrow, great big chunks of a delicate jelly-like substance with a light ethereal taste that did not have the offal-pungency of liver or other organ meats, none of which I eat.

Marrow has been around forever, but it only became a staple of Western restaurant menus after the British chef Fergus Hender...