India, June 21 -- I am writing this from Istanbul. The last time I was here was 14 years ago with my parents. A year later, my father died unexpectedly. Though I've travelled extensively since, I never found the courage to come back. Time, eventually, does its work. This week, I finally returned to Istanbul with my younger daughter and husband before she leaves for university.

It is impossible to be here and not think of my father. He found Istanbul endlessly fascinating. As I revisit places we explored together, I find myself urging my daughter to be curious. To travel not just to eat, shop and be entertained, but to understand the forces that shape a city, to learn its history, engage with its culture and ask questions. These are lesso...