India, March 6 -- Why are Kannadigas in particular and South Indians in general obsessed with jaggery? Is it because sugarcane is widely available in the region? Is it that South Indians like the dry and crumbly flavour of jaggery as opposed to the unctuous nature of the khoya cream that sweetens North Indian desserts? Is it that we Dravidians have an intrinsic and genetic aversion to the syrupy spongy milk-based ras malai and mishti doi that are a favourite of Bengalis? Are we lactose-intolerant as a people? Is this why we turn to the bella or jaggery for sustenance and solace?

The supremacy of jaggery is most obvious during our great harvest festivals. You can see it right before your eyes. The streets are full of sugarcane which is ex...