India, Oct. 2 -- Navratri is over, heralding the arrival of Vijaydashmi or Dussehra. Today is when Ravana effigies are burnt, symbolising the victory of good over evil. As communities across the country conjure up grand feasts, chefs tell us about the significance of these regional delicacies.

In the East (particularly West Bengal), Bijoya Dashami is an emotional farewell to Goddess Durga, and the feast takes on a different tone - families prepare khichuri with labra (a medley of vegetables), payesh, and sweets like sandesh and rasgulla. "While vegetarian offerings are central to the rituals, Bijoya is equally known for its indulgent non-vegetarian spreads, with mutton kosha and fish curries gracing festive tables," chef Nishant Choubey ...