India, Nov. 14 -- About 90 years ago, people risked prison for the sake of pasta.

Benito Mussolini launched a campaign against the staple in Italy, in the 1930s, and tried to promote rice instead. Rice grows abundantly there (Italy is currently Europe's largest exporter of the grain), while most of the wheat needed for pasta is imported.

When word went out that their ruler wanted people to switch, pasta simply went underground. Restaurants took it off menus but still served it; grandmothers secretly made it for their families.

Mussolini eventually gave up his attempt to ban Italy's favourite meal.

Food has always found a way around despots. Every ancient recipe we know has survived wars and displacement. Tucked into our favourite comf...