TANZANIA, Sept. 18 -- AFRICA is coming to Tanzania.

Not just to watch football. Not just to fill stadiums.

It is coming to experience a country, a people and a football culture. That is the real meaning of hosting the Africa Cup of Nations.

Tanzania will share the tournament with Kenya and Uganda, turning East Africa into the centre of African football.

The stadiums will provide the stage. The matches will provide the drama. But the tournament will be judged, too, by everything that happens beyond the touchlines.

A tournament begins long before the referee blows the first whistle.

It begins at the airport, when a tired traveller steps off a plane.

It continues with the immigration officer, the taxi driver, the hotel receptionist, t...