Nairobi, Aug. 20 -- Homa Bay is in the news for having terrible roads. The Mbita-Sindo road is atrocious, yes. I have a home seven kilometres from where the tarmac ends at Icipe in Mbita and normally have to endure an excruciating 20-minute drive to my little abode, which is a shame because the area is beautiful.

At night, the lake lights up like a city, with the lamps of fishermen out in their boats. Currently, though, it is dry as a bone and leaves carry cakes of dust. Days are hot and stuffy and, because that main artery is dusty and full of rocks, it feels like an oven should you find yourself out there at noon.

Normally I like to take a walk to digest my dinner. Last week, Lady and I walked out just before sunset. After a 20 min wa...